Thursday, March 24, 2011

Warwick Estate does it again with big scores from Steven Tanzer

2010 Sauvignon Blanc Professor Black Stellenbosch Bright pale yellow. Ripe, expressive aromas of nectarine, peach, grapefruit peel and dusty spices, all lifted by a floral quality; showing the clean, fruity side of the variety, not the herbal, peppery one. Smooth, round and dry in the mouth, with good breadth and a seamless texture to the stone fruit and pineapple flavors. Sound acidity gives the wine a light touch and solid backbone. But this is delicious already. 90

2008 Pinotage Old Bush Vines Stellenbosch Bright ruby-red. Sexy floral scents of dark berries, eucalyptus, cinnamon, pepper and licorice. Suave and vinous, with a compelling deep sweetness to the berry and cedar flavors. Smooth and classy pinotage with a light touch. Finishes with fine, mouth-dusting tannins, excellent length and enough structure to support further improvement in bottle. 91

2007 Three Cape Ladies Cape Blend Simonsberg (a blend of 35% cabernet sauvignon, 34% pinotage, 27% syrah and 4% merlot): Deep, saturated ruby-red. Burnishes aromas of plum, black cherry, currant, cedary cigar box and sexy oak. Lush, rich and deep, but with harmonious acidity framing the complex flavors of plum, chocolate, licorice and mint. This boasts a compelling sappy core of sweet fruit and superb energy for a wine that spent nearly three years in oak. Very sophisticated and very long, finishing with building tannins that call for patience. A beauty. 92(+?)

2008 Cabernet Sauvignon The First Lady (cabernet sauvignon; no new oak): Good full medium red. Cassis, pepper, fresh herbs and graphite on the nose. Suave and silky but not at all overly sweet, showing a medicinal reserve to the flavors of plum, currant, licorice and mint. A laid-back wine with a rather light touch, in an Old World style. Finishes with dusty tannins. This needs time in bottle to expand. 90(+?)

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